Puri - a seaside town in Odisha, on the east coast, holds a special significance for Indians all over the world. Located in Puri is the renowned Jagannath Temple. The temple is as old as the legends...indeed the story of the origins of the temple are a legend in itself. Well, that is for another time and blog.
Today, I am sharing about my most recent visit to the temple. This was my third visit and I must admit, on every visit, there is something new to discover. This visit was no less. One of my colleagues took me to witness the change of the flag. Honestly, I was not overly enthusiastic to witness changing of the flag, but a chance to visit the holy shrine is not to be passed, so I went.
We arrived around 3pm and after a short prayer, we found a spot to sit down so that we could witness the changing of the flag. Now, there are no chairs laid out so you simply sit on the floor. There were some 500 people in the temple compound that day, so we were lucky to get good seats.
While we waited, my colleague shared with me some insights. The flag is known as the Patita Pavana Bana (Bana means flag in Odishi). The flag holds the same reverence as Lord Jagannath and witnessing the change of the flag is a truly blessed experience.
The tradition of changing the flag has been going on for some 800 years and only members of one family (who were blessed and given the divine duty to change the flag) are allowed to do so. Two people are chosen to carry out this duty and they do it with utter faith and devotion. As I sit there and absorb all these interesting facts, I kept looking at the flag and the Nila Chakra atop the temple.
The temple itself is some 65m or 215ft tall. I wondered how someone would climb the temple. I could see that the temple had a step structure so it was easy to see how they would climb up. As I said, I was not too enthusiastic about this experience to begin with, so I just relaxed and waited. I started to feel a sense of calm and serenity in a crowd of 500 souls seeking spiritual strength. Seeing the temple, the flag, the blue sky in the background...the day was picture perfect.
Sitting on the ground and gazing at this marvelous structure that has withstood the torments of time, you sense that time has stood still; the myths, the legends and the facts of this amazing shrine are fascinating.
Just then, one of the men appeared and started his climb carrying the new flag. I hazard a guess and estimate a weight of between 10 to 20kg for the flag, strapped around his waist. No safety or climbing gear, the person started to climb the "Jaga-mohan" and from there the "Deul". It is when he is climbing the Deul, that amazes you. Back against the wall, facing the crowd, swiftly placing legs and hands using muscle memory and in about 10 min, he has reached the top. The crowd chants out "Jai Jagannath". Before he can approach the Nila Chakra, he lights a lamp in the small Hanuman temple atop the Duel (so I have been told). He then proceeds to climb up towards the Nila Chakra using the help of a chain that is already there. All this while he must be careful, not just for his life but also to ensure he does not drop the flag.
The Nila Chakra is about 12 feet in diameter. he must now somehow balance himself when sitting on top of the chakra and remove the old flags. Once they are removed, he carefully packs them to bring them down.
Watching him sit on top of the chakra, I marvel at this spectacle. To climb this giant structure without harness or safety requires faith and devotion.
Some say faith is tested twice, as if on cue, the second person starts his climb with a second flag. He climbs up faster with confidence. He joins his friend on the top of the "Duel" and takes over to put the new flag atop the temple. Seeing the new flag un-ruffle and flutter in the wind, I feel a sense of elation.
So many times, we question faith but to see it raw and un-faltered is an experience. I feel blessed to have this amazing experience and bow my head in reverence. Faith can indeed move mountains. With a smile, I head out of the temple.
Today, I am sharing about my most recent visit to the temple. This was my third visit and I must admit, on every visit, there is something new to discover. This visit was no less. One of my colleagues took me to witness the change of the flag. Honestly, I was not overly enthusiastic to witness changing of the flag, but a chance to visit the holy shrine is not to be passed, so I went.
We arrived around 3pm and after a short prayer, we found a spot to sit down so that we could witness the changing of the flag. Now, there are no chairs laid out so you simply sit on the floor. There were some 500 people in the temple compound that day, so we were lucky to get good seats.
While we waited, my colleague shared with me some insights. The flag is known as the Patita Pavana Bana (Bana means flag in Odishi). The flag holds the same reverence as Lord Jagannath and witnessing the change of the flag is a truly blessed experience.
The tradition of changing the flag has been going on for some 800 years and only members of one family (who were blessed and given the divine duty to change the flag) are allowed to do so. Two people are chosen to carry out this duty and they do it with utter faith and devotion. As I sit there and absorb all these interesting facts, I kept looking at the flag and the Nila Chakra atop the temple.
The temple itself is some 65m or 215ft tall. I wondered how someone would climb the temple. I could see that the temple had a step structure so it was easy to see how they would climb up. As I said, I was not too enthusiastic about this experience to begin with, so I just relaxed and waited. I started to feel a sense of calm and serenity in a crowd of 500 souls seeking spiritual strength. Seeing the temple, the flag, the blue sky in the background...the day was picture perfect.
Sitting on the ground and gazing at this marvelous structure that has withstood the torments of time, you sense that time has stood still; the myths, the legends and the facts of this amazing shrine are fascinating.
Just then, one of the men appeared and started his climb carrying the new flag. I hazard a guess and estimate a weight of between 10 to 20kg for the flag, strapped around his waist. No safety or climbing gear, the person started to climb the "Jaga-mohan" and from there the "Deul". It is when he is climbing the Deul, that amazes you. Back against the wall, facing the crowd, swiftly placing legs and hands using muscle memory and in about 10 min, he has reached the top. The crowd chants out "Jai Jagannath". Before he can approach the Nila Chakra, he lights a lamp in the small Hanuman temple atop the Duel (so I have been told). He then proceeds to climb up towards the Nila Chakra using the help of a chain that is already there. All this while he must be careful, not just for his life but also to ensure he does not drop the flag.
The Nila Chakra is about 12 feet in diameter. he must now somehow balance himself when sitting on top of the chakra and remove the old flags. Once they are removed, he carefully packs them to bring them down.
Watching him sit on top of the chakra, I marvel at this spectacle. To climb this giant structure without harness or safety requires faith and devotion.
Some say faith is tested twice, as if on cue, the second person starts his climb with a second flag. He climbs up faster with confidence. He joins his friend on the top of the "Duel" and takes over to put the new flag atop the temple. Seeing the new flag un-ruffle and flutter in the wind, I feel a sense of elation.
So many times, we question faith but to see it raw and un-faltered is an experience. I feel blessed to have this amazing experience and bow my head in reverence. Faith can indeed move mountains. With a smile, I head out of the temple.
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